Showing posts with label middlegame. Show all posts
Showing posts with label middlegame. Show all posts

Friday, February 11, 2011

Navigating The Maze Of Variations

How does one choose a move in the maze of so many possible moves and variations?

I find that nowadays, when I look at the position, I first look for something to do (where my position is still safe and the kings on both sides are safe) is to in order:

a) look for loose pieces,
b) pieces that can be attacked (eg. backward pawns)
c) look for undefended squares
d) look for squares which can be used to improve my position

Once I found a move, I look for problems should I make that move.
a) Am I vacating a square which can be used by my opponent?
b) Have I left a piece en prise which the opponent can attack/gain a tempo with?
c) Have my defensive position weakened as a result?
d) If it is a pawn move, what has happened to the squares with which it used to defend?

I find that by constantly asking these questions, it becomes easier to make a good move and the number of blunders I make during the game as a consequence fall.

I played a game on Tuesday night and my opponent made a surprising move that I had not figured in my calculations. It was slightly counter-intuitive in that he moved his bishop to target a pawn chain formation directly along the same diagonal as the bishop. It was then that I realised that because the base of my pawn chain is only guarded by a rook and could be pinned, did I discover his idea and thankfully was able to repel his attack in time. I was silently cursing myself in that I had missed his move completely and I chalk it up as a move I should watch out for in the future.

I still find that the moves that are hardest to detect OTB are what I called "counter-intuitive" moves and non-forcing moves and it is from there I usually lose or proceeded to lose my advantage.

Okay, you may ask, having these set of rules is fine but how do I improve on learning how to make good moves during training?

The way I do is this (your mileage may vary) and I find it works for me:

Take any modern tournament book/autobiography that is deeply annotated and well explained by the players themselves. Now go to a random middlegame position of any game (anything from move 18 onwards is probably the best). Set up the board and start analysing. Now test yourself on how far you are able to calculate as many variations as possible (make sure that that the move has been annotated) within a 20 minute time frame. This is to simulate as close as possible to an actual match situation.

Start writing down as much as you can. Once the time is up, check if the variations you've made are the same as what the players have made. If the variation you've chosen is not explained, load the position in Fritz and see if there are any problems with the variations themselves.

At my level, I find that at times, I can find the GM moves but at times, my moves are weak and Fritz/Stockfish suggest alternative moves which are just as good.

It is not just you must know how to calculate but also what to calculate that is equally important.

So what kind of books would I recommend?

Being a patzer, I can only speak from my own experience and would not proclaim that the following list is the ONE but I find the following books have been fantastic when used. I'm sure you will have your favourite books as well.

If you're starting out, Bobby Fischer's My 60 Most Memorable Games is one of the best there is.

Mikhail Tal's Life And Games Of Mikhail Tal is another book I would gladly recommend for use in training.

Vishy Anand's My Best Game Of Chess is an excellent read where Anand annotates the moves and the variations of his games in clear detail (explaining the ideas/motifs and plans)

San Luis 2005 is a very intense book. The annotations are very nicely done, highly detailed and well explained. If you want to truly test yourself, this book will not disappoint when used for such training.

Note that I'm positive that there are other more effective training methods but I find that this training method I used has been effective for me. It may or may not work for you and I would not dare suggest anything to the contrary given my rating. I find that by making known what I use in an effort to play better chess and sharing this information, I hope you may find it useful.

As always, YMMV. Cheers!

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Self-Analysis Of A Middlegame

This game was played not so recently against a player of the same strength as I.

This post is going to be long so please bear with me. I'm essentially writing down the thoughts and ideas behind this game and I will stop only at what I feel were critical junctures in the game. I'm sure there are plenty of mistakes galore and both my opponent and I missed stronger continuations suggested by chess engines.

The game started out as a Scandinavian Defense and it didn't take long to go out of book.

My lack of opening knowledge was very telling. I was basically wasting precious tempi and there was a lot of shuffling to and fro in the beginning.

We now arrived at the 1st critical juncture of the position.

20... c5 (see 1st diagram on left)

I sank into a deep thought for this.

What are the plusses for White?

White's twin rooks occupies strong central positions and there is immense pressure (or going to be) on the d and e-files. Black's weak square here is e5 (green square in 2nd diagram on left).

What are White's minuses?

The problem is that Knight on a5. In 2 moves, it can jump from a5-c6-d4 (see red arrows) pretty much gumming up the works and solidifying the position.

So my plan is stop this Knight. This is Black's plan and why Black played c5.

21. Ne5

This move accomplished 3 aims.
- Opening up the a8-h1 diagonal for my bishop
- preventing Knight going to c6
- attacks Black's bishop.

21. .... Bc8
22. Re3 Bb7
23. Bxb7 Nxb7 (See 3rd diagram of the left).

Beautiful.
Now the 2 Knights are at least 3 moves away from going to the outpost on d4. So my next course of action is simple. I plan to
open up the d-file for my Rook by pushing the d-pawn. Before I can do that, I need to solidify my position and over-protect the square d4.

The other main reason I did this is because I have a Queenside pawn majority and I feel that with a pawn majority, it is important to use it to my advantage while Black is currently regrouping.

24. Ne2 Nd7
25. Nf3 Nf6

26. d4 cxd4
27. Rxd4 Qc5
28. b4 Qc8
29. Red3 Rxd4
30. Rxd4 Rd8 (see 4th diagram on left)

Now we reach another juncture. I've got 3 moves here.

31. Rxd8+
31. Qc3
31. Qd3

I looked at the continuation 31. Rxd8+ Qxd8. After this move, I can't find a reasonable continuation to improve my position. What's worse, I've handed the open d-file to my opponent for nothing. I toss this one out.

31. Qc3 looks ok. The Queen is still protected but I feel that White is being too passive here and needs to go for the throat.

31. Qd3. I liked this move a lot. I maintain a strong control on the open d-file. My c-pawn cannot be taken because it's mate after 31. Qd3 Qxc4 32. Rxd8+.

If Black exchanges Rooks, my Queen is still in a dominant position. I also have attacks on the b6 pawn and can move my Knight to e5.

31. Qd3 h6
32. Ne5 Rxd4

33. Qxd4 Qc7
(see 5th diagram on left)

The battlefield has cleared somewhat but it's still a tense struggle. I have a Queenside pawn majority and I intend to use it. Now how I can improve my position better?

Black's Knight is threatening Nd6-f5 to chase away my Queen. So that gives me 2 tempi to do something before that happens.

Since I intend to push the c-pawn now to break Black's position, I plan to move my e2 Knight to a better position via f4 and d3.

34. Nf4 Nd6
35. Nfd3 Nf5 ( See 6th diagram on left)

Okay. Time to move my Queen. I looked at Qc3 and I wasn't happy because it created unnecessary pressure after Ne4 in which my Queen has to move again. But now I see something.

36. Qb2! Accomplishing 2 aims. I plan to attack down the b-file which is going to be open pretty soon.

36.... Qd6
37. c5 bxc5
38. bxc5 Qd5



We have now reached the last critical juncture of the game. Please see the last diagram on the left.

After this, it was pretty much downhill for Black as the c-passed pawn was creating havoc in Black's position. Here I played the automatic move:

39. c6 (adhering to the maxim: passed pawns must be pushed)

But there is a much stronger move here and one I should have taken my time to calculate (but I was nearing time control) and chose the easy albeit more cumbersome continuation. Can you see the move I missed? I'll leave it to you as a tactical exercise.

Answer can be found by highlighting between the brackets

[The stronger continuation is
39. Qb8+ Kh7
40. Nxf7!! Ng8 (notice how the Knight on d3 cannot be taken by the Queen?)
41. Qd8 (the c-pawn now wins the day) ]